Blue Rhapsody with Butterflies

Rhapsody is definitely my most beloved blouse pattern and I have used it more than a dozen of times (this is my 15th Rhapsody, to be precise!), making blouses for myself and Gaby, and even one for my mother.

Despite the fact, that I have a number of them, I have a favourite, which I wear in the summer more than any other. It is the one with 3/4 bishop sleeves with ruffles and I've been planning a repeat ever since.

I had a piece of fabric left from the georgette with butterflies - I have a sleeveless dress out of this fabric and a long sleeve shirt with a bow collar (which I have never worn :( ), and I though I could make a sleeveless Rhapsody out of the remnants. 

But then, with a bit of sacrifice on the length - I love the shorter length! - and some shenanigans with the sleeve ruffles - they were cut separately and added to the sleeves, hiding the seam in the elastic, I managed to get a 3/4 sleeved Rhapsody and I am ecstatic! Now I am waiting for the warm weather to add it to my staple spring and summer wardrobe.

Apart from shortening the blouse, I made almost no mods to the pattern in addition to my usual mods. All the seams are french seams, including the seams, attaching the sleeves to the body and I used the burrito method for the yoke. However, I did try something new - I stay-stitched and added fusible to the curved edges - sleeve openings and neckline. The fusible is a step I skipped previously and for good reason - stay-stitching is plenty enough for stabilizing these seams, the fusible made the seams too stiff and I wouldn't recommend it for delicate fabric as this thin georgette.

Pattern: Rhapsody by Love Notions 

Size: XS, modified

Fabric: Polyester Georgette, 1 m

Time to make: 3 days

I finished the blouse more than a month ago, we took the pictures three weeks ago, but I've been so busy with work and prepping the balconies for the spring, that I've had almost no time for blogging. Meanwhile I finished sewing three more items, now I  need to photograph and post about them. Stay tuned :)

My Make Nine in 2026

Over the years, I’ve made a habit of trying to organize my sewing life with a bit of planning. There is a common fallacy in the sewing world—one I’m certainly not immune to—of impulsively sewing "interesting" garments that don’t actually fit my lifestyle or wardrobe. The result? A closet full of clothes, but "nothing to wear."

On the other hand, buying fabric is a hobby in itself, often completely separate from the act of sewing! It’s the purchase of a dream or an image of oneself that rarely comes to fruition.

In an attempt to curb my fabric shopping and impulsive sewing, I’ve been trying to match my fabric stash with my pattern collection. My goal is to fill my wardrobe with items I truly need, plus a few "curiosity" projects—after all, this is a hobby and it should be about joy and pleasure.

This is just a small scoop of the fabrics I've collected over the years, which I would very much like to turn into garments this year. 

1 is a piece of black stretch denim, which could be another pair of  calf-length jeans for myself. I loved the ones I made last year and would definitely appreciate a second one with even better fit.

2 and 3 are sweater fleece and ribbing for a hoodie for Gaby's boyfriend. I'll probably make him another Brad hoody by Viki Sews, as I know how it fits him.

4 is a small, but gorgeous piece of viscose gabardine, that could become a pair of shorts for Gaby, she likes to wear such summer pants.

5 and 6 are chiffons, that I mean to try to turn into a bias sundress. I've made the Bailen top many times, I'm curious to try the dress with these fabrics, though the cutting and sewing of the chiffons will be a nightmare. And on that note - no more chiffons, I'm done with buying these!

7 and 8 are transfers from my previous year plans, I really, really would like to sew them this summer into a dress and jacket, respectively.

9 is a new acquisition and i'm curious if that wouldn't make another gorgeous Metra blazer.

10 is some georgette, that I intend to try to make into straight pants for myself. It would be more like a test garment, I have another precious fabric, that I would like to cut into, once I've perfected the fit.

11 and 12 are big pieces of plush and fleece, which should produce some sportswear for myself - a fleece zipped sweater and some wide pants, probably.

13 and 14 are knit fabrics, intended for leggings for Gaby and myself.

Unlike last year, I’m setting more realistic goals this time. 

What happened last year? I started strong, buying almost no new fabric and immediately sewing the few pieces I did acquire. But then summer arrived, and I was caught in a "chiffon madness." I bought meters of chiffon and georgette, fraying my nerves trying to turn them into flowy dresses. 

I ended the year with 32 meters of new fabric, only half of which was sewn. I hope to do better this year, but if not—it’s just a hobby, not world politics!

Quick Christmas Sewing

The time around Christmas, when Gaby visits us, is usually, apart from all the family cooking and feasting and all the other activities we do together, also time for some last minute frenzied sewing. I'm just that kind of person, I love it when I can make something with my own hands for my close and extended family.

This summer I sewed some curtains for Gaby's kitchen and as an addition to my Christmas presents I decided to sew a matching tablecloth for the kitchen table. I bought a big piece of fabric and made two tablecloths - one for Gaby and Vali's kitchen and a smaller tablecloth for our kitchen table too, out of the remaining fabric. Yes, I love using up all the fabric, when possible!

Earlier this year I made a t-shirt for Vali, which he loved, so I bough another piece of cotton viscose fabric and made him another t-shirt for Christmas.

The fabric is divinely soft and pleasant on touch, I really hope he likes his present.

Pattern: Burda #132 from 12 / 2020

Size: 46

Fabric: cotton viscose knit

Time to make: 2 days

This year Gaby joined a folk dance club in Vienna and she asked for a simple black t-shirt and short black skirt for her folk dance practice. For the t-shirt I chose a true-and-tried-many-times Burda basic t-shirt pattern - 6820. My light modifications - I shortened the sleeves to make them 7/8 and raised the neckline, which I finished with a simple covering band.

Pattern: Burda 6820

Size: 36, shortened sleeves, raised neckline

Fabric: black cotton knit

Time to make: 1 day

The skirt is a shortened version of the skirt of the Willow Wrap Dress by Love Notions, which I made this summer for myself, so I knew the pattern. It is super simple, with two seams at the sides and a waistband with an elastic.

Pattern: Willow Wrap dress by Love Notions

Size: xs, shortened

Fabric: french terry

Time to make: 1 day

Yellow Willow Dress by Love Notions

I'm on a roll, making summer dresses for myself and Gaby. Willow Wrap dress by Love Notions has been in my plans for three consecutive years already, it was high time I made it.

This dress is also the seventh of my Make Nine fabric-and-pattern busting makes for this year - not bad. The bright yellow ITY knit fabric is perfect for a light summer dress and I was extremely comfortable today in the heat on our drive from Samokov to Sofia.

You might be wondering - where is the wrap, if it is a wrap dress? Well, when I bought the  pattern, I was into wrap dresses and I have one made out of similar polka-dot ITY fabric, but in delicious chocolate-brown. As much as I love it, it is a chore to make the wrap at the bust to stay modest, so I decided for my first Willow to skip the wrap and give it a simple front with a round neckline. My other modifications - I shortened the bodice by 2 cm and the skirt by 10 cm, to suit my figure and my preferences. 

Pattern: Willow Wrap dress by Love Notions

Size: xs, shortened

Fabric: ITY 1 m

Time to make: 3 days

The pattern comes with several sleeve options regarding length and style. I chose the flutter sleeve and I am very happy with my choice, I believe it gives the simple tricot dress a trifle of sophistication and femininity. I wasn't planning on buying more ITYs this year, but I was so impressed by the comfort and wear-ease of the dress, that if I come upon a really beautiful one, I might snatch it for a similar dress for Gaby. 

Metra Blazer by Love Notions

My latest sewing project could be rightfully referred to my stash-busting Make Nine projects for 2025, as it makes use of a pattern by Love Notions, which I had not yet used and two pieces of fabric in my stash, remnants from other projects.

I bought the black jersey for a zippered sweater I made for Gaby at the end of 2023 and the complementary colored ponte is from my first Sabrina Slims.

When I printed the pages of the Metra Blazer and spread them on the black jersey, it became obvious, that I wouldn't be able to make a jacket out of this fabric. Still, I wanted to try the pattern, I am petite and I was quite willing to go for a shorter version of the blazer. 

In the end, with some strategic calculations and placements of the pattern pieces, I was able to cut two fronts, two back pieces and two 3/4 sleeves out of my meager piece of main fabric. At this point of the planning I was positive I wanted to use up only fabric from my stash, so there were just a couple of contenders for the lapels and sleeve hems. In the end it was the dark green/white ponte that won me over and I should say, I am happy with my choice.

I didn't have enough ponte for two whole fronts, so the inner part of the colorful fronts, not seen from the outside, is made out of polyester lining fabric, as is actually the custom with lined blazers. I debated with myself whether to line the whole jacket, but in the end decided to keep it simple and line only the fronts, as is per pattern. The idea was to make a light summer blazer and I know from experience that a full lining would have added weight and warmth, unnecessary for warm spring and summer.

Pattern: Metra Blazer by Love Notions

Size: xs

Fabric: ponte, 100% polyester

Time to make: two weeks

The only thing, that I would change, if I were to make this blazer again, is the pockets. As they are, these are faux welt pockets - they don't have pocket bags and in fact the entire front is the pocket. Thus the pockets could be used to put your hands in them, but they are not functional as places to keep your keys or other small things in. I know that plenty of women frown upon the idea of carrying items in your blazer pockets, but I prefer practical pockets and next time I would add actual pocket bags.

Although I did reduce the length of the blazer drastically - probably by 7 cm, I like it as it is and I wouldn't add much length to a future variation of the blazer, if I decide to make it again.

These pictures were take during our walk around Vrana on the second day of Easter and I combined the blazer with my black Burda jeans and Burda short sleeve blouse. 

PS I've been going out and about town in this blazer yesterday and today and I actually find it very practical for the transitional weather. It might turn out to be a useful addition to my wardrobe after all.

My Make Nine in 2025

This is my fourth in a row Make Nine pledge at the beginning of the year. Last year I had planned a number of patterns I paid good money for and wanted to see them in use. However, I only made two of the particular patterns I had chosen - Burda Jeans 120 02/2010 and the cargo pants 129 from the same magazine, which was a curious coincidence. I also made a lot of light summer dresses, including one for Gaby, which was on my Make Nine list, however not the one, I had initially planned.

This time I've decided to play it a bit differently. I usually go mentally through my wardrobe and my patterns and so the Make Nine choice is mostly pattern-based. Over the years, however, I've collected quite a lot of fabrics too and this year I've decided to base my pledge on a bunch of my fabrics. This is just a small pile of the stash I have, but I have to start from somewhere :)

I've chosen 15 pieces of fabric and 12 patterns and the aim towards the end of the year is to have at least 9 of these fabrics made into the selected (or other) patterns. Apart from pattern 1, which is a ready made dress and is a general idea rather than a specific pattern, I have all of the listed patterns in my collection and some of them I've already made with other fabrics over the years.

1. The first pattern is probably the most difficult to make - an imitation of Gaby's graduation dress, RTW Swing Cocktail Dress. It is a combination of four fabrics - lace, knit fabric under the lace, chiffon for the skirt of the dress and sateen for the underskirt. These are fabrics 7 and 8 - lace and chiffon in dusty rose. I have the suitable knit fabric too, I'll only have to buy the sateen.

2. The Gloria dress by Vikisews was one of my finds last year. I've had a cotton sateen fabric in purple, which I bought three or four years ago to make a shirt, but now I want a dress out of it. This is fabric 2.

3. Fabric 6 is a high quality cotton dress fabric, which I want to make for Gaby with pattern 3 - the Burda 144 11/2016. I already made this pattern last year in green, but I want to try it with some mods for Gaby.

4. Pattern 4 is a Love Notions dress, that has been in my plans for two years. In 2025 I plan to finally make it, using the yellow knit fabric 5

5. Last year I made a pink hoodie for Gaby, which has been a big success. I have a fairly large remnant of the same fabric (9) and coordinating rib fabric, so I'll try to make a simpler version, without the hood, for myself. If the fabric is really not enough, I might consider combining it with some other sweatshirt fabric for a color-block hoodie.

6. I want to try my hands at a short suit jacket. Burda 117 08 / 2017 comes in my size and height and I intend to try it with the green georgette - fabric 1.

7. I bought the pattern for the chiffon blouse Burda 101 12 / 2020 the moment it came out and soon after I found the perfect fabric and accessories. This is fabric 12 and I hope to make it this year.

8. A lined jacket out of corduroy fabric. The fabric was a gift and has been in my stash for years, I'm ready to cut into it and try to make something. The pattern I've chosen is Burda 6799.

9. I have two pieces of denim fabric - black (fabric 4) and blue (fabric 3) and I want to make jeans out of them. Last year I made two pairs of jeans and Burda 7050 turned out to be my most favourite make of the year.

10. Grey fabric 13 is some big piece of cotton viscose georgette, that I liked a lot for a pair of wide legged trousers. I have the Burda 104 02/2020 Marlene pants, but I might search for a different pattern for this fabric, I haven't decided yet.

11. Fabric 15 is dark blue sweatshirt knit, which I plan to turn into a hoodie for husband, probably the Burda 6718 men's anorak.

12. I have plenty of big remnants of sweatshirt fabric and if I have enough, I might try to make a color combo pair of joggings to go with the hoodie, like Knipmode 04 03 / 2020.

13. Fabric 10 is a light shirt cotton, fabric 11 is also cotton, medium weight. Since husband has plenty of cotton shirts, but wears none, I've decided to make these two fabrics into boxer shorts for him, something I know he'll like and wear.

Knowing me, I'll probably end the year with bigger stash of fabric than I've started it with, but at least I'm having all the good intentions, and that must count for something :)

Beige Rhapsody for Gaby

While March was the month I sewed for the boys, April was Gaby's month. As we were expecting her on the first days of May, I wanted to make her a few new things to take with her to Vienna. 

The first is a viscose blouse, yet another Rhapsody. I made the size xs, but without the shortenings I usually do, as I thought the full length would suit Gaby better. However, she is not a fan of long blouses, it turns out, so I had to shorten it by 5 cm. I should point out that I agree with her and the shorter length does suit her better.

I took the pictures a few days before her arrival. We had planned to make a quick photosession with all the things I made for her, but time flew so fast, that in the end we gave up the idea and I was left with only these pre-shortened not-modelled photos.

Pattern: Rhapsody by Love Notions 

Size: XS, modified

Fabric: viscose

Time to make: 6 days

I made the blouse, using my favourite version - the 3/4 bishop sleeve with the inserted elastic. I plan to make myself one of these too in a viscose or polyester crepe for the summer, if I can find some fabric that I like.

Although the colors of the viscose fabric are a bit bland, I think it suits Gaby well and she did wear it during her stay for a meeting with her uni friend.

Summer Tranquil Nightgown

Last year I sewed a long-sleeve nightgown for my mother, using Love Notion's Tranquil collection. I am still fascinated with the interesting details of the pattern, so this year I made another nightgown, but a short-sleeved one for the summer. The fabric is a lovely viscose-cotton knit, light and soft, extremely pleasant to wear.

I used the same size as last year, I only tried to make the neck opening less gaping, as my mother complained of its width in the previous nightgown. I believe the problem with larger sizes is, that people can be large at different parts of their body, and as my mother has actually a fairly small stature, the upper part of her body, above the bust, is quite small. I could have made the opening even smaller, I believe the neckline at the back is a bit too wide, but that only occurred to me after I had already made the nightgown. Now I'm just crossing my fingers, that the fit will be alright this time.

Pattern: Love Notions Tranquil Collection

Size: M, elongated by 3 cm

Fabric: cotton viscose knit, 2 m

Time to make: 4 days

I bought a fairly large piece of fabric and I've got still plenty of it, so I'm thinking of making myself a pajama set, using the same pattern.

My Make Nine in 2024

My third in a row Make Nine Challenge. I love this game at the beginning of the year, as it allows me to get out of the rut of sewing easy and easily wearable everyday t-shirts, hoodies and pants and to plan for different types of makes and different fabrics. Even if I don't make these 9, I would still like to have them in my head as a possibility. 

All of the patterns I have chosen this year are ones I already own and a couple of them have been on my list every year. I seem to want to make them, but never get to them. Maybe 2024 will be the year I finally do.

Of last year's Make Nine list, I made 4 - an improvement, I think, in 2022 it was only three of nine :) So, I sewed the Sinclair Lotte Hoodie, twice, once as a sweatshirt knit hoodie and once as a viscose blouse with thumbhole cuffs, which turned one of my favourite blouses last year. 

Then I made the Nightwear from Love Notions for my mother and I believe she loved it. 

I also sewed the Fleece Jacket Burda 6337 from their 2019 catalogue. To test the pattern, I made it from a fleece sweater of my husband, which was too big on him. I did not appreciate the design and didn't repeat it for Gaby, as I had initially intended. Nevertheless, I should acknowledge, that I've worn it a lot at home, as it is comfy and warm. 

And finally I made the Flared Jeans, which I am still to photograph and blog these coming days.

My new Make Nine for 2024 try to reflect my desire to make dresses, coats and jeans.

1. Sinclair Apollo Hoodie. This one I transfer from last year, mostly because I printed and cut the pattern, but never sewed it. I'm not so fond of it as of now, but I'll give it a try, it might surprise me.

2. Boyfriend Cardigan by Love Notions. I want to make this for Gaby, though I did make her two new layer pieces last December. But she claims she always needs layer pieces and her laboratory is quite cold.

3. Willow Wrap Dress by Love Notions. I'm definitely making this for myself, I have a feeling this could be a great summer dress just in my style.

4. Classic straight Burda Jeans, #120 04/2010. I was not very happy with the fit of the two pairs of jeans I made last year, despite testing a muslin first. I think I want to start afresh this year with a new jeans pattern.

5. Marlene Pants, Burda #104 02/2020. I've made these once for myself, now I plan a pair for Gaby. Last summer she liked one of my wide legged pants and wore it while in Bulgaria, clearly she needs a pair of her own. 

6. Coat Burda #102 10/2021. I'm not entirely sure if this is the coat pattern I want to start with, but I want to try it, as I've seen so many beautiful versions of it on the Burdastyle.ru site.

7. New cargo pants for husband. Last year I had promised him a new pair, as he lost quite a lot of weight and his old cargo pants, which he wears on almost every hike, are actually rather loose on him. I have the pattern, the fabric, the zipper and the buttons, I only need to get down to work and make it.

8. Some formal dress for Gaby out of silk, viscose or georgette. I still haven't found the perfect pattern for her, but this Burda #126 01/2015 is very feminine with interesting shoulder details, so I might try it.

9. Summer shorts for Alex. The pattern I have is Burda #137 04/2016 and I've been meaning to make it for him for such a long time, maybe this summer I will.

OK, the pledge is done, the list is made, now on to making some clothes :)

Tropical Rhapsody

After I made the Burda blouse with butterfly sleeves, I was left with quite a substantial piece of fabric, so of course, I made another blouse.

My initial idea was to make it a sleeveless top, however, my piece of fabric was kind of wide but short, so it had to be a top with an yoke. 

And when it comes to tops with yokes, there's only one true-and-tried yoked blouse for me - Rhapsody. For this iteration of the pattern I had to make quite a few adjustments to fit it into the piece of fabric - I raised the cut on the back by 5 cm, thus shortening the yoke, I additionally shortened the yoke but 3 cm (so a total of 8 cm), I also shortened the front and back pieces a bit - in other words I used up the entire piece of fabric and modified my pattern pieces to fit in it.

After the front and the back were assembled together with the double yoke, I tried it on and found it a bit too simple, so I decided to add a henley opening. True, it was a whole day of additional work, but I'm happy with that look, I find it much more interesting than a plain round neckline. There's more to be desired from my execution of the henley, I did try my best, basted everything in place, etc. and still it is not perfect to my satisfaction, but for this attempt it will have to do. I have definitely made some mental notes for my next henley. 

Of course, my buttonholes are real operational holes :)

 

Pattern: Rhapsody by Love Notions 

Size: XS, modified

Fabric: cotton viscose knit

Time to make: 5 days