Green Dress with Heartshaped Neckline

This is my year of dresses and I've made another one :) The pattern is much more involved than the previous sheath dress, with princess seams at the front, a hidden zipper, cut waistline and it also includes sleeves.

My fabric is a type of georgette and the lining is green colored polyester lining. The original dress is designed with a full circle skirt, but I opted for a semi-circle - neither did I have so much fabric, nor was I willing for so much volume.

My major modification was to transform the original front, which featured two separate fronts with real buttons into a single piece, only imitating a buttoned front. The major reason, apart from saving on labour, was that the original neckline was gaping on me and I had to take in some 3 cm in total from the volume. Of course, I could have opted for a solid front without any seams and if I am using more colorful fabrics for my next dress out of this pattern, that is what I plan to do, but the solid color of my fabric prompted me to add some interest to it in the form of the button band.  

  I also made my usual height modifications, which are one of the major reasons I rarely shop ready-to-wear dresses - my bust line and waist line need adjusting for my short stature. I took 0.8 cm of the height above the arm-openings and further 1 cm above waist. Next time I'll raise the waist just a tiny bit more, 0.5 - 0.7 cm would be a better fit, I think, especially if I decide to reduce the size from 36 closer to my 34.

Pattern: Burda #144 11 / 2016

Size: 36, reduced

Fabric: green georgette, polyester lining

Time to make: 1 week

The original pattern in the magazine does not include a pattern of the skirt, only instructions how to construct a full circle skirt, which is fairly simple and everybody knows, theoretically. It does not preclude the fact, that it is additional work, so I used my already cut and printed Vikisews Deniz skirt pattern, which I've been adding lately to most of my dresses.

The dress is lined - the body and the skirt are replicated out of polyester lining fabric.I did not see the point of adding volume to the sleeves, so they are left not lined. The lining of the skirt is also a semi circle skirt, but 10 cm shorter than the shell skirt.

The back closes with an invisible zipper and a hook and eye. I think I like the additional closure the hook and eye provides, however next time I think will go back to placing the invisible zipper right on edge of the neckline and skipping the clasp.

Burda Sleeveless Chiffon Dress

I made a new dress - for me. It is sort of a wearable muslin out of two inexpensive chiffon fabrics -  the same black chiffon I used as lining for Gaby's dress and a bit more structured, but still very transparent and flimsy black chiffon with white flowers for the main fabric.

A curious fact about chiffon - because the fabric is very transparent, the color of the lining can totally change the overall color of the dress. In my case the black lining deepens the black of the background and mutes the white of the flowers into grey. I placed the fabric, just for fun, on other chiffon fabrics I have at home and the change with lighter lining was amazing - the color immediately becomes washed out and greyish.

The pattern of the dress is a combination of an old Burda favourite of mine, which I tried to make a few years ago and abandoned  - Burda #104 from 02/2011and the skirt is again the semi-full Deniz skirt. A few notes on my modifications and observations: 

The body is designed to be cut 2 cm under the waist and the suggested skirt is a simple rectangle, gathered at the waist. I don't like such skirts and find them very unflattering, so I added the semi-full Deniz. However, I found that the semi-full skirt should stay exactly on the waist line. I did take off one of the added 2 cm under the waist, but next time I'll cut the upper body exactly at the waistline. I also made a few cm corrections on the width of the neckline at the front and the back, as Burda patterns are wide on me in this area.

Next - the hidden zipper is at the side. This is more comfortable and logical, when a dress is sleeveless. However, the semi-full skirt behaves differently, when it is rotated so, that the straight parts are at the sides - the cross-grain parts at the back and the front pull and stretch and the skirt looks uneven. In the end I had to cut the skirt in an oval form, so that it would actually look circular. Next time I'll definitely place the straight lines at the back and the front and either try to add the zipper on the cross-grain on the side or move it to the back.

A small note for next time - the arm openings are a bit too narrow, I know I am a bit peculiar and prefer wider openings on sleeveless dresses, so I'll widen them just a bit next time - it's not a big deal.

With this dress I tried the burrito method for adding the full lining of a sleeveless body and it is magic - every seam is neatly hidden inside, there are no outer seams around the neck and the arm openings and the dress looks very polished. There are plenty of videos how to add the lining like that and I heartily recommend the method.

 

Pattern: Burda #104 02/2011 dress and Deniz skirt by Vikisews

Size: 17 Height: 154 - 160 cm

Fabric: black chiffon, black chiffon with white flowers

Time to make: 4 days

Gloria Dress for Gaby

My second Gloria dress with Denis skirt, both patterns by the leading Russian pattern company Vikisews. Gaby was very enthusiastic for a feminine georgette dress for herself after I made mine a couple of months ago. I saw the fabric some time ago, sent her a picture, she liked it and it was decided - this was going to be my personal present for her birthday.

The fabric is sort of georgette, but thinner and more see-through than the fabric I used for my dress, so I had to make a lining for the skirt. I cut the lining out of sheer black chiffon and I think it worked perfectly for the fine main fabric of the dress. 

I made the dress with a few small modifications, based on previous experience: I raised the heart neckline by 2.5 cm to make it more covering, as the original is a bit low; I also narrowed the neckline by 2.5 cm both at the front and the back, as I found the original cut a bit loose. I also made most of the seams French seams because of the fine and transparent nature of my main fabric. I small note - Gaby is a bit more broad shouldered than me and I should add just a bit more volume at the sides - probably somewhere in the range of 1.5 - 2 cm total for more comfort, as the dress is a bit tight-fitting as it is. I also added 1 cm to the length of the body, as Gaby is taller than me and it was a needed correction - it fits her body well.

 

Pattern: Gloria dress and Deniz skirt by Vikisews

Size: 36

Height: 154 - 160 cm

Fabric: polyester georgette, black chiffon

Time to make: 3 days

I had very limited time to make the dress before we packed our bags for Greece and I am so, so happy that I managed, with all the challenges the thinner fabric posed. Actually, when I cut both fabrics, I was sure I had bitten more than I could chew - I don't think I had ever sewn such thin fabrics, but the result turned stunning and I am so happy I was able to present this dress to her on her birthday, which we celebrated at the sea-shore :)

Gloria dress and Denis skirt are presently my favourite patterns and I plan at least several more dresses, based on them. It could be a phase I'm going through, but I've been favouring my silk dresses this summer and I need more - I just love it, when I am wearing sophisticated feminine dresses. I've been putting on my Roliz and Gloria dresses by Vikisews on every occasion I could find and I believe Gaby was also impressed by her dress, as she wore it twice during the four days of our sea vacation :)

And might I just add, that she looked absolutely stunning in it :)

And as of today a newly-minted Master of Science from Vienna University!

Viki Sews Gloria Dress

Three years after my Roliz dress by Vikisews, I've made another dress. The inspiration for it comes from a Russian seamstress, who blew my mind with her interpretation of Vikisew's dress and prompted me immediately to log on to the site and buy the two related patterns.

Yes, two patterns, as the upper part of the dress is the Gloria and the skirt is a simple semi-circle skirt, which I lazily chose to buy, instead of drawing it myself.

I've always known that short wide skirts are my thing and when I saw Bogdanchik's version of Gloria, I knew I had found my dream dress pattern :)

Apart from the different skirt, this version of the dress also features a different sleeve - the long shirred lower part of the sleeve is gone and the upper part is gathered with an elastic, inserted in a tunnel.

Although I ordered and made my size 36 and my height, I've noticed a few minor things that I will need to modify in my next dresses, based on this pattern.

The square neck opening of the dress is a bit low for my taste and so I added a little piece of ruffle. Next time I plan simply to raise the neckline by 2.5 cm.

Another issue is the width of the dress in the upper part and at the shoulders. I know I am actually 34 around the bust and the shoulders, so I plan to narrow the cleavage and to add two small darts at the back neck, reducing the front and the back necklines by 2 cm respectively.

 

Pattern: Gloria dress and Deniz skirt by Vikisews

Size: 36

Height: 154 - 160 cm

Fabric: polyester georgette

Time to make: 2 weeks

 

Light Jack Joggers

I made another pair of Jack Joggers by Viki Sews, my fourth of this pattern and second for husband. 

When I bought the pattern some time ago, my husband was about 12-13 kg heavier and I bought the 44 size. However, he's been on the path to getting in shape and now he needs a smaller size joggers. I didn't feel like buying the next size, printing and gluing lots of pages, so I simply took off 2 cm width-wise from the front and the back pattern pieces and it worked like a charm.

Pattern: Jack by Vikisews

Size: 42 (M) Height: 178-184 cm

Fabric: cotton French terry

Time to make: 3 days 

The pattern is simple to follow and produces nicely proportioned joggers, which husband liked. The only frivolity I added is the yellow stripe at the pockets. I bought quite a piece of this light grey French terry and I plan a hoodie to go with it as well, with some yellow interest, added to the pockets and the hood there too.

Husband is such a sport for posing for my blog! Here he's trying to be funny :)

My Make Nine in 2023

Last year I made my first Make Nine pledge - nine specific clothing items I intended to sew in 2022. Of course, as is quite typical of me, I quickly forgot and abandoned the pledge - pledges, challenges and lists are clearly not my thing. 

Of the nine patterns I had decided to make, I made only three - the denim jacket, twice - for myself and then for Gaby, the Vikisews hoodie for my husband and the dirndl for Gaby, probably my most complicated sewing project last year.

Still, though I rarely stick to plans, it is always informing and curious to me to find out where I was a year ago. For that reason, and because I still think a plan is a good thing, I decided to pledge a new bunch of Make Nine this year.

The first three on my list are the last three patterns I bought in 2022. These are expensive indie designer patterns and I am determined to make use of them, at least once.

1. Sinclair Lotte Hoodie. Although I have plenty of hoodie patterns, I've been a sucker for colorblocking lately and this original hoodie was a must have for me. And while I was on this mindwave and because in was Boxing Day and Sinclair patterns had a sale I bought a similar hoodie for my husband:

2. Sinclair Apollo Hoodie. I'm determined to give it a try, though I might make it as a sweater out of thinner knit fabric.

3. Nightwear from Love Notions. I am a huge Love Notions fan and I've been gradually building a collection of their patterns. I love the curved colorblock detail and I might use it in a blouse or tunic, not just on a nightgown.

The next six items I have planned include three of my previous year Make Nine and three new ones. This year I want to sew jeans and jackets and I also plan a cocktail dress for Gaby - very ambitious :)

4. A coat - I have several Burda patterns and I intend to try at least one of them, probably using a coat fabric I have in my stash for my first try.

5. Fleece Jacket. This is Burda 6337 from their 2019 catalogue. Gaby asked for more second layer clothes, so i plan to make this one for her.

6. Jeans. I am definitely going to try this pattern for myself, I have the fabric already.

7. Some formal dress for Gaby. I think I'll start with this pattern - Burda #126 01/2015 is very feminine with interesting shoulder details, but I would make it with a different style skirt.

8. New cargo pants for husband - he definitely needs a new pair and i am planning to try this Burda pattern this year.

9. And finally something for Alex - summer shorts. I never came to making these for him last year, as I couldn't find suitable fabric. The pattern I have is Burda #137 04/2016

Now that I have made the pledge, I am so curious to see what I will actually make in 2023. Time will show :)

Hoodie for Gaby's Boyfriend

I can hardly believe it myself, but this is my eighth hoodie this year - 2022 was definitely the year of hoodies :)

This one is my Christmas present for Gaby's boyfriend, who is much taller and broader than her, so no wonder the hoodie is big on her. Still, I think the photos give a good idea of the pattern and the final result and I am happy to have them on my blog.

Although I have a couple of Burda men's hoodies, none of them was exactly what I was looking for - average volume, kangaroo pocket, roomy hood and set-in sleeves. After going through the catalogues of other pattern companies, I chose this one from Vikisews - Hoodie Brad.

Gaby's friend likes green and I was lucky to find a very nice quality warm sweatshirt knit fabric, suitable ribbing and even matching cotton knit for the lining of the hood.

 

Pattern:  Hoodie Brad by Vikisews

Size: 178-184 cm; 40; modified

Fabric: sweatshirt knit fabric, rib knit, cotton knit

Time to make: one week  

My modifications:

Although I bought size 40 and I believe the recipient is size 38, the body of the hoodie looked too narrow, compared to Alex's RTW hoodies, so I added 2 cm width to the front and the back, a total of 4 cm in the round. I also widened a bit the neckline opening, as it was much too narrow for comfort and respectively widened the neck circumference of the hood. I shortened the length of the hoodie, as the pattern looked much longer that the RTW hoodies I was comparing it to and I also shortened the sleeves (which on second thought I should not have done, better longer than shorter sleeves, now I cross my fingers the sleeves would not be short on him).
The original pattern does not have a pocket, so I made one, based on other hoodies we have at home.
 

All in all, I am happy with the final result, Gaby found the hoodie warm and soft. However the pattern did not turn out exactly what I was looking for, so I'm still in search of a good men's hoodie pattern with set-in sleeves.

Hoodie Johnny by Vikisews

And here's the second of my finished sewing projects this year, which is also one of my selfless sewing items in the Make Nine list - a hoodie for husband. 

I have two Burda men's patterns for hoodies, both with raglan sleeves and kangaroo pockets. When I discussed with husband the plans for his hoodie, he however did not like them much. So we browsed through the men's patterns on Vikisews site and found this FREE! pattern with set-in sleeves and side pockets, which was exactly what husband was looking for.

The body of the hoodie is ingeniously divided into three parts - front, back and side panels and the pockets are added in the seams between the side panels and the fronts. Because husband's favourite colors are red and orange, he chose again a red lining for the inner part of the pockets and the hood and I think it suits the dark grey color of the outer fabric just perfectly. 

I bought (for 0 RUB) size 46 and made it almost without modifications. My preliminary measurements of the pattern pieces showed that the width and the length fitted husband exactly as he wanted the hoodie to fit, I only added 3 cm to the sleeve length (which might have been actually redundant). However, I haven't properly washed the fabric yet, only steam blocked it, so I wanted to have room for eventual shrinkage.

The only proper modification of the pattern I made is the hood, which is supposed to be cut in one piece, with a seam on the top to form the curve. I prefer a classic two-piece hood, so I modified the pattern piece. I installed rivets for a drawstring and bought a proper string, but husband said he always found drawstrings annoying, so for now he hood is left stringless.

And another small modification, born more out of necessity than deliberation - I added two 9 cm pieces of fabric to the hem ribbing. My ribbing was a tube only 90 cm wide, when cut, so I needed to elongate it and I decided to make it like in some commercial blazers with fabric patches next to the zipper. I actually like it very much like that.

 

Pattern: Hoodie Johnny by VikiSews

Size: 46

Fabric: sweatshirt fleece, polyester knit lining

Time to make: one week

Husband is demonstrating his contrasting red pockets, matching the red pockets of his Jack Sweatpants, another pattern by Vikisews I made for him as a Christmas present. BTW, in these photos he is also wearing a Burda Longsleeve I made for him last autumn.