Blouse 114 Burda 11 2020

I finally found the right fabric to sew Blouse 114 from Burda 11 / 2020 - the cover pattern of the issue. I bought the pattern, printed it and glued it as soon as it was available, but the fabric I was planning for it turned insufficient. I recently finished another blouse with it, but more about that later :)

A few weeks ago I came upon the same fabric I had in mind, I believe this is ITY with elastane, in this rich wine color. It was a precut 1.2 m piece and was just enough to fit size 36 with my preliminary corrections for height and width.

First - I reduced the width of the pattern pieces by 1 cm at the fold line, thus a total reduction by 4 cm. If I hadn't corrected for the width, the neckline would have been too wide and slipping off my shoulders all of the time.

Then I reduced the length of the pattern pieces - 1 cm above the arm curve and 3 cm above the waist. I also reduced the length of the grown sleeves by 2 cm and I significantly shortened the cuffs and the waist piece. As I have mentioned, I am quite petite and the pattern seems to have been drafted for someone really tall with very long arms.

Another correction I made was to make the wrist cuffs and the waist cuff more fitting. There is a major contradiction in this pattern - it requires very fluid fabric, but expects it to hold a very long cuff - naturally, the cuff slips downwards and gathers. I preferred to keep the elasticity of cuff instead of reinforcing it and to wear the blouse with the cuffs slightly raised.

Pattern: Blouse 114 from Burda 11 / 2020

Size: 36, reduced in length and width

Fabric: ITY with elastane, 1.2 m

Thread: black polyester on the overlocker, wine polyester on the straight machine

Time to make: 3 days