Showing posts with label chart. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chart. Show all posts

Saturday, January 10, 2015

WIP: Penguins


Let's face it - I've been a bit obsessed with penguin hats :)))
It all started with an idea to make an ear-flap hat, using short rows.And I also wanted it to have some stranded knitting for fun. So I made this hat for my nephew - it still needs a pompom, some embellishments and maybe a fleece lining.


Then Gaby said she wanted a penguin hat too, but with this penguin chart. However, the chart is quite big - 20 rows for a penguin, so I remolded it to two versions - a 8 sts repeat of 10 row penguin (which Gaby chose) and a 12 sts repeat of 12 row penguin. I've posted the charts for anyone who might want to knit penguins.



And the third hat? Actually the second hat came out a bit small, but instead of frogging it, I decided to knit another one for Gaby and to find a smaller head for the second hat. Thus in the course of a week I made three penguin hats. Now - on for the pompoms and the fleece linings.




Friday, November 21, 2014

Celtic Knot Mini Dog Sweater


I've written down another sweater for my friend's mini dog. I like knitting for this loveable dog so much - easy knitting and instant gratification. I hope you'll enjoy my new pattern as much as I did!



Pattern: Celtic Knot Mini Dog Sweater
Yarn: Alize Lanagold Classic 80g, 200 m or any other worsted weight yarn
Needle: 4 mm (US 6)
Time to knit: two days
The pattern if FREE and DOWNLOADABLE and includes a chart and row by row instructions.




I also took plenty of pictures during the process to clarify the pattern. The pdf includes row by row instructions and the chart, and here's the short version of the pattern in pictures:

Cast on 54 sts, leaving a 50 cm tail for mattress stitch. Work 17 rows in 2x2 rib, starting and finishing with 2 purl stitches.

Заплетете 54 бр, като оставите около 50 см конец за зашиване. Плетете 17 реда ластик 2х2, като започнете и завършите с две опакови бримки.


On row 18 (WS) add 10 new stitches to the central part for the Celtic Knot Chart:
p16, k1, kfb, pfb, p1, k2, p2, kfb, kfb, pfb, pfb, kfb, kfb, p2, k2, p1, pfb, kfb, k1, p16

На ред 18 от схемата добавете 10 бримки към схемата: 
16о, 1л, 1л отпред и отзад (добавя една бримка), 1о отпред и отзад, 1о, 2л, 2о, 1л отпред и отзад, 1л отпред и отзад, 1о отпред и отзад, 1о отпред и отзад, 1л отпред и отзад, 1л отпред и отзад,2о, 2л, 1о, 1о отпред и отзад, 1л отпред и отзад, 1л, 16о


If you follow the increases as written, you should get this configuration of stitches on the right side of your knitting, which will allow the knit and purl stitches from the rib to flow uninterrupted into the Celtic knot chart:

Ако спазите добавянето на бримки както е описано, опаковите и лицевите от ластика преминават плавно и без прекъсване в схемата на келтския възел:


Work in chart for 18 more rows, a total of 36 rows:

Плетете още 18 реда по схемата, общо 36 реда:


On row 37 split the knitting into three sections for the front leg openings: a small stockinette st section of only 7 stitches, worked for 13 rows:

На ред 37 плетката се разделя на три части за отворите за предните крака: отдясно се плете малка секция, която се свива до 7 лицеви бримки, общо 13 реда:


Instead of cutting the yarn, you can slip stitch it with a crochet hook along the edge of the leg opening to bring it to the beginning of the middle section:

Вместо да срязвате конеца, можете да го спуснете със залепени бримки до началото на средната секция:


Then work the middle section for 13 rows:

Плетете по схемата средната секция нови 13 реда:


And the last stockinette st section of 7 stitches. On row 50 the three sections are knit together again, adding the decreased stitches:

След това плетете отделно и последната секция от 7 бримки. На ред 50 трите секции се събират заедно, като на 49 и 50 ред се добавят свитите бримки:


From row 50 to row 68 the sweater is knit as one section over 64 stitches. On row 69 begin the decreases, which form the hind part of the sweater.

От ред 50 до ред 68 пуловерът отново се плете като едно цяло от 64 бримки. От ред 69 започвате да свивате за оформяне на задната част на пуловера.


On Row 92 the ten additional stitches of the Celtic Knot chart are decreased and the chart is transformed back to 2x2 rib. Only 22 stitches are left on the needle:

На ред 92 допълнителните 10 бримки в схемата на келтския възел се свиват и схемата се прелива обратно в ластик 2х2. На куката остават само 22 бримки:


The two edges of the sweater are sewn together (I prefer mattress stitch) to form a tube:

Двата края на плетивото се зашиват и оформят тръба:


Then the rib around the hind legs is knit in the round, picking 27 stitches along the left and 27 stitches along the right edge of the curve for a total of 22 + 27 + 27 = 76 stitches of 2x2 rib. Knit the rib for 10 rounds and cast off rib-wise.

В задния край на тръбата се плете ластик 2х2 в кръг. Извадете по 27 бримки от двете страни на плетката и заедно с 22 бримки на куката плетете общо 76 бримки ластик за 10 реда. Закрийте всички бримки еластично - опаковите опаково и лицевите лицево.


Pick up 28 stitches around the leg opening and knit 2x2 rib for 10 rows. Cast off rib-wise.

Извадете 28 бримки около  отвора за крака и плетете ластик 2х2 за 10 реда. Закрийте бримките еластично.


Repeat with the second leg opening:

Повторете и за втория крак:


And you have a fancy little dog sweater :) The circumference of the sweater is 32 cm and the total length from rib to rib is 40 cm.

Обиколката на пуловера е 32 см, а цялата дължина от ластик до ластик е 40 см.







Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Düsseldorf Aran - The Sleeves


I finished my Düsseldorf Aran sweater this morning - in less than ten days :). While it is still wet blocking, a few words on the modifications I made.
The designer Fiona Ellis is becoming one of my most favourite designers with her beautiful feminine intricately cabled sweaters - I want to knit at least two or three more of her designs. However, there were a few features of Düsseldorf Aran that I did not appreciate much when browsing through the Ravelry project pages for this sweater - the seed stitch edging and neckband, which I replaced with 2x2 rib, but most of all - the sleeves.
First - too loose and baggy for this delicate pattern and then the pleat, although very original, looked unsightly bumpy even on the magazine photos. So I changed the pattern of the pleat, replacing it with this fan-like feature:


Tips for the sleeve (size s). My gauge is the same as in the pattern, but on 4 mm needles.
1) Cast on 74 sts.
2) Knit (k2p2)4 (k2p8)4 (k2p2)4 k2 for 4 rows
3) Continue 14 sts in St st, p2, (k2, p2tog, p7)4 times k2 p2, 14 sts in St st
4) Decrease 1 purl st in the four pleats every 4th row until 2 sts remain.
5) Knit 14 sts in St st, (p2k2)5 times, p2, 14 sts in St st. for 4 rows (50 sts)
6) Continue with row 1 of the cable chart, keeping the knit stitches as knit and the purl stitches as purl. For this purpose you have to cross twice two couples of knits and purls, always crossing the purls behind the knits. For the central 4-st cable increase two stitches in the 2 knit stitch column to form the four-stitch cable.

Continue to knit in pattern, meanwhile increasing 1 st on every side of the sleeve every 20th row for a total of 4 times (60 sts).

Cap:
Decrease every other row 1x3 sts, 1 x 2 sts, 2 x 1 st, every 4th row 6 x 1 st, every other row 1 x 1 st, 1 x 2 sts, 1 x 3 sts. Cast off the remaining sts.

The I-cords: Pick up 4 sts at the base of the crossing 2-stitch-knit columns - one stitch from the purl column, 2 stitches from the two knit-stitch-column and one stitch from the purl column. Knit a 25 cm I-cord.



Thus the I-cord piece looks like a continuation of the cable of the sleeve. Knit a symmetrical I-cord at the other side of the cable pattern.


Tie the I-cords into a butterfly:


P.S. Can you believe that the actual color of the sweater is dark pine green?! The wretched camera is absolutely color blind, drives me mad :))