Sunday, May 14, 2023

Colorful Calf Length Burda Jeans

Finally yesterday we had the long-awaited sunshine and warmth in a series of cold rainy May days. It's been so cold, that my bougainvillea, which I took out on the balcony in the beginning of May, counting on the fact that summer was just around the corner, began withering from the cold. And guess what - it's 9C and raining all day today. But that is today, and yesterday we took pictures of my new calf-length colorful jeans.

I've been planning on sewing a pair of jeans and dreaming of colorful jeans for long. Apart from all the jeans pairs I have in my Burda magazines, I specifically bought no less than 7 jeans patterns and I'm planning on testing at least two or more of them this year. Actually making a pair of jeans was N6 on my Make Nine list, so at least I can cross this one out.

For my piece of colorful cotton denim with elastane I chose Burda 6534 from their spring/summer 2017 catalogue. It is a classic jeans pattern, slim legs, two lengths - full and calf, slightly lowered waistline, at least this is what it says on the cover.

My first and most basic mistake was that I didn't make a muslin. I know I am not the Burda style figure type - that I have confirmed every time I sew with Burda patterns. Their model is much taller than me, with broader chest, shoulders and waist and smaller hip to waist ratio. I have wider hips, narrow waist, I am much shorter - how did I expect the pattern to fit me?

Of course, I made some adjustments for length at the length lines, but the main issue with pants is the area between the waist and the crotch - and there are so many variations there in lengths and widths between figures. Yes, now I know my lesson - if I want my pants to fit me well, I do have to make a muslin first.

One call I made right - I chose the smallest 34 size, although I am supposed to be 36 according to Burda tables. But I know that their pants run large on me, so at least that I made right. Then I measured the pattern pieces, compared them to my actual measures and decided that things looked OK. 

As it turned out - the front line is too long on me and the pockets are to high - I should lower it at least by 2 cm. Meanwhile I need to raise the back with at least 2 cm, as I have a fuller bottom and I need more length there. At the same time I had to take in the waist at the back by 5 cm! and additionally some 3 cm at the side lines, because the jeans were gaping awfully at the waist.

Pattern: Burda 6534
Size: 34, needs adjustments
Fabric: cotton denim with elastane, 1 m
Time to make: two weeks

Yesterday I visited my favourite fabric store again, but alas, they didn't have any colorful denim fabric on stock, they had even ran out of this one, so I returned empty handed. I mean, of course, not literally empty-handed, I did buy some other fabric, as all normal people when visiting their favourite fabric stores do, but there won't be any other summer jeans soon and I did want to try my notes on another pair. However, I'll be testing one other Burda jeans pattern these days and I do plan to make a muslin first.

A cute squirrel we saw in the park, while filming the jeans

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