Beige Dress for Gaby

Last year I bought a large piece of viscose and made a Rhapsody for Gaby out of it. I had a fairly big remnant - probably half of the fabric, so this year I decided to use it to make a summer dress for Gaby.

I am modeling the dress, but it is supposed to fit Gaby, who is taller and a bit more broad-shouldered than me.

The pattern is a mesh-up of three dresses and it took me quite a while finally to cut it. The skirt is a slightly widened skirt from the Roliz dress by Vikisews. I love my Roliz and my only regret is that I didn't make the skirt a bit wider, as I had plenty of its gorgeous fabric.

The bodice is again Burda #104 02/2011 dress, but only up to the armholes. The back is cut straight and flat, and the front continues into Bailen dress by Pauline Alice, with wider straps, as I was aiming at strap width that could cover the bra straps underneath. The dress closes with a zipper on the side.

Pattern: Bailѐn Top by Pauline Alice, free pattern, Roliz by  VikiSews, Burda #104 02/2011 dress

Size: 34 

Fabric: 100% viscose for the outer dress, polyester for the lining

Time to make: 3 days

 

The dress is fully lined, as all of my woven fabric dresses lately, with simple beige lining fabric for the bodice and smooth poly-acetate lining for the skirt.

Beige Rhapsody for Gaby

While March was the month I sewed for the boys, April was Gaby's month. As we were expecting her on the first days of May, I wanted to make her a few new things to take with her to Vienna. 

The first is a viscose blouse, yet another Rhapsody. I made the size xs, but without the shortenings I usually do, as I thought the full length would suit Gaby better. However, she is not a fan of long blouses, it turns out, so I had to shorten it by 5 cm. I should point out that I agree with her and the shorter length does suit her better.

I took the pictures a few days before her arrival. We had planned to make a quick photosession with all the things I made for her, but time flew so fast, that in the end we gave up the idea and I was left with only these pre-shortened not-modelled photos.

Pattern: Rhapsody by Love Notions 

Size: XS, modified

Fabric: viscose

Time to make: 6 days

I made the blouse, using my favourite version - the 3/4 bishop sleeve with the inserted elastic. I plan to make myself one of these too in a viscose or polyester crepe for the summer, if I can find some fabric that I like.

Although the colors of the viscose fabric are a bit bland, I think it suits Gaby well and she did wear it during her stay for a meeting with her uni friend.

Blouse with Jabot

A month ago I bought an online course from Burda Academy on the sewing of this silk blouse with jabot. The course includes the pattern, which is a Burdastyle pattern and 21 video tutorials. Although I consider myself not a beginner seamstress, I have so much to learn about the technology of making clothes. The reason I chose this particular pattern was my desire to upgrade my knowledge of working with silk and other delicate flimsy materials.

The video tutorials were very, very detailed. The tutor explained clearly and demonstrated masterfully all the steps from choosing the fabric to the final finishes like sewing the buttons. I found it very interesting to watch and very liberating to follow the instructions, instead of wracking my brain how to do this or that step.

Pattern: Blouse 124 from Burdastyle 03/2021

Size: 36

Fabric: viscose silk, 1.2 m

Time to make: one month

I followed most of the instructions as indicated, but I also adapted the pattern to my figure and my fabric. As I am petite, I did my usual corrections to Burda patterns to shorten the blouse: -1 cm above the armholes, -1.5 cm above the waist and -2 cm below the waist.

Because I shortened the blouse at the armhole height, I had to transfer these corrections to the armhole circumference of the sleeve. The tutorial showed a very neat way to do that, which I followed. As this is a usual correction for me, I realized I hadn't done it the right way before, so it was a valuable lesson.

The jabot was definitely the most complicated part of the blouse and its most prominent feature. I haven't had a blouse with such an extravagant jabot before and I don't think I need more of these, but I find it nice to have one in my wardrobe. I finished the edges of the curly bands on the overlocker with a rolled hem. The jabot was also the reason I chose this particular fabric, as it requires double-sided silk and this was the only fabric I had in my stash that looked (almost) the same from the right and the wrong side.

As I know that I need swayback corrections, I deepened the back darts by 0.5 mm on each side (total 1 cm deeper, respectively 2 cm longer). Thus the back was taken in by a total of 2 cm and I absolutely love how the blouse fits me - following the figure without being too snug or too baggy at places.

I really like the fit of the blouse and I feel I need to use the knowledge and practice I gathered at least once more. However I'm sure I don't need more jabots, so I am envisioning my next version to be with a round collar and I would also add a cuff to the sleeves instead of an elastic.

When I began a short sleeved blouse at the end of September, I didn't know it would take me a month to finish it. I worked on it very, very slowly, "a teaspoon per hour" as is the Bulgarian saying and I thoroughly enjoyed this slow sewing. However, as we went far into October, I was sure I wouldn't be able to take any pictures of it out in the open. But we are enjoying such an unbelievably warm autumn this year (it was above 26C yesterday in Sofia), that not only was I not cold during our walk in the park, but I felt actually hot in my silk blouse :)

Roliz Dress by Vikisews

A crazy and very emotional photosession husband and I took today on our way back from Riska Skakavitza Waterfalls. Last week I finished my first dress from Vikisews - a popular Russian pattern company, and I wanted to photograph it somewhere special and beautiful. I absolutely love the mountain road from Sofia to Sapareva Banya, that meanders between Vitosha and Verila on one side and Plana on the other, with a mesmerizing glimpse to the high wall of Rila in the distance. Knowing that we'll pass along it today, I packed the dress, a pair of fancy sandals, a hairbrush and my sunglasses, just in case. So - the dress is a bit wrinkled here and there; my hair, after four hours of climbing and descending, is everywhere; no jewelry and accessories, no make-up, but we had so much fun and the freshly mowed field we found was such a perfect background, that I consider it one of my best photosessions this year :)

Vikisews is, from what I've listened and read, popular and kind of high-end Russian pattern company, which sells their patterns with very step-by step instructions and a general detailed instruction for pattern adjustment to individual measurements. Each copy of a pattern you buy from them is only in one height segment and one size - which is both good and bad. I love the fact that they have 154-160 cm height segment and I don't have to adjust the pattern pieces to my height, as with most other companies. The prices are very very reasonable, especially compared to US or other indi designers. The instructions are in Russian, though they have a collection of patterns in English, but the prices there are much higher. The instructions are very professional, with a thought to the smallest detail, I was extremely impressed. 

I got hooked on buying and sewing a dress from Vikisews by several Russsin vloggers I follow. The summer dresses are very feminine and somewhat minimalistic in volume, with intricate details. I had my eyes on three dresses and in the end bought Roliz, but I think I want Alexia and Nola too. Not that I have so many places to go and events to dress up for, but I absolutely adored the slow process of sewing the dress.

The fabric is viscose crepe, with good texture and structure and fun print in colors that I find flattering. I had 1.5 m, which was more than enough and allowed me some pattern placement - I was adamant that I wanted the two big orange flowers on my fabric piece in full display, as without the orange bits the fabric lost most of its interest.

I had this fabric for at least three years (with two different size matching hidden zippers and a thread bobbin, bought just in case). In the end I needed buttons, instead of zippers, so I still had to rummage in the local haberdasher's for matching buttons -  the irony :)

Pattern: Roliz by Vikisews

Size: 36 

Height: 154 - 160 cm

Fabric: viscose crepe

Time to make: 6 days

My only modifications to the pattern: I added 2 cm to the length of the dress, I shortened the straps by about 1 cm and I narrowed the back by about 1.5 cm after the first try; otherwise I made the dress as designed and as per instructions, even my buttons are at the exact places as provided by the designer.

I already bought a new Vikisews pattern - simple elasticated knit trousers. I have at least half a dozen of similar patterns from Burda, but the fans of the company sing so many dithyrambs for these pants, that I'm curious to try them and see for myself.

Polka Dot Burda Blouse

This is the second pattern from Burda 06/2021 I won recently. It is dress # 108 with a square neckline - a feature, that is very much on trend this summer. I still haven't decided if I want to sew it as it is shown in the magazine in the form of a dress, as sheath dresses are not exactly my type of dresses, but I think the pattern makes a very nice and interesting blouse.

The fabric - viscose knit with elastane, had been in my stash for almost a year now. It was an interesting print, with polka dots in the central half and stripes on the sides. I wracked my brains over it, browsed for ideas and what not and still couldn't decide how to use the mixed print. In the end I decided to separate the prints and to make a blouse out of the central polka dot part and probably a sleeveless top out of the two striped remnants. The polka dot blouse is now a fact and I'm still figuring out what to make out of the two long narrow striped pieces; we'll see.

I cut the blouse out of the dress pattern in size 36, slightly grading at the hips to 38, as I wanted some ease there over jeans and skirts. The sleeves in the pattern are plain straight short sleeves, but at the last minute I decided to elongate them up to under the elbows.

 

Pattern: Dress #108 from Burda 06 / 2021

Size: 36

Fabric: viscose knit with elastane, 1 m

Time to make: two days

The most interesting feature of this pattern, which I'm definitely going to use again - the square neckline, which is formed by two folded straps and the self-facing of the top end of the front and the back. Because my fabric is not very stable, I added stitching with a double needle to fix the fold of the self-facing and the straps.

The hems of the sleeves and the blouse are finished on the overlocker and then with a narrow 1 cm fold stitched with a double needle.

Burda 6231 and Burda 106 06/2020 Mash Up

My second make from the big piece of red viscose fabric - a mash up of two Burda patterns.

Initially, the blouse started as a simple bias cut top, following Burda 6231 pattern. I cut the two pieces, connected the shoulders with french seams, finished the armholes with bias tape, finished the sides with french seams and made the narrow hem. And then I tried it at was rather disappointed with the simple look it had.

I was also a bit perplexed by the wide opening at the back. I'm not quite sure if there is a mistake in the pattern, but the illustration shows a top with a front, cut lower than the back, while the pattern pieces produce a top with a very low cut back. It reminded me of another Burda pattern I bought this spring - Burda 106 from 06 / 2020. And on a whim I decided to cut a rectangle the width of the fabric, gather it and try to place it around the neckline in the manner of the latter pattern.

I immediately liked the way the gathered piece added some elegance and interest to the simple top and turned it into a statement blouse. I'm still hesitant whether to add the pair of straps, which tie at the back, as in Burda #106 06/2020, or leave it as it is. If I do add them, it will be for practicality, so I'll be testing the blouse first to see if I need the ties to stop the shoulders from falling down the arm.

Pattern: Burda 6231 with ideas from Burda 106 06/2020

Size: 36 with modifications for short height

Fabric: 100% viscose poplin

Thread: cotton, red

Time to make: 2 days

Red Burda Blouse 6924

This August is pretty unusual here in Sofia - it's more cold and rainy even for the cold and rainy mountainous climate we are accustomed to. So last Sunday the backpacks were ready, the cheese pie (banitza) was baked and we were hyped to go hiking on Rila, but ... it wouldn't stop raining and the forecast was for rain and thunderstorms all day long. And what else could I do but sew another Burda 6924 blouse :)

Last year I bought this bright red viscose (it is blood red, in case your monitor, similar to mine, displays it otherwise). I believe I had at least 2.5 m of it and I was thinking of a long bright red dress. But I never wear long bright red dresses and where would I do wear them? So, I decided it was time to cut into it and make something, even something as small as this cropped front tie blouse.

 

It is exactly as the white blouse, only red :) I made the same modifications as for the white blouse, including the bias tape coverage of the back neck seam, french seams, four front buttons. Gaby already wore it to the dentists' and declared that she loves it even better than the white one and now wants a third, but with 3/4 sleeves. We'll see about that :)

 

Pattern: Burdastyle 6924

Fabric: 100% viscose, light fusible

Thread: cotton, red

Time to make: 2 days

Blue Bailen Top

One more Bailen top out of scraps. I made this one months ago, but somehow always missed the opportunity to photoshoot it. The fabric is heavy viscose, which I used for a hooded shirt for Gaby and a (still not blogged) dress for myself. I had a very little amount of scraps, so I had to make the back out of two separate pieces. All of my seams are french seams, I used narrow hem and bias tape out of the same fabric.

The top is cut on the bias and after my experiment with the brown Bailen, which I cut straight, now I'm positive that these little tops do need the drape that comes from the bias cutting.

This has been one of my favourite tops this summer, especially combined with the blue cardigan I made in spring: