Monday, October 23, 2023

Blouse with Jabot

A month ago I bought an online course from Burda Academy on the sewing of this silk blouse with jabot. The course includes the pattern, which is a Burdastyle pattern and 21 video tutorials. Although I consider myself not a beginner seamstress, I have so much to learn about the technology of making clothes. The reason I chose this particular pattern was my desire to upgrade my knowledge of working with silk and other delicate flimsy materials.

The video tutorials were very, very detailed. The tutor explained clearly and demonstrated masterfully all the steps from choosing the fabric to the final finishes like sewing the buttons. I found it very interesting to watch and very liberating to follow the instructions, instead of wracking my brain how to do this or that step.

Size: 36
Fabric: viscose silk, 1.2 m
Time to make: one month

I followed most of the instructions as indicated, but I also adapted the pattern to my figure and my fabric. As I am petite, I did my usual corrections to Burda patterns to shorten the blouse: -1 cm above the armholes, -1.5 cm above the waist and -2 cm below the waist.

Because I shortened the blouse at the armhole height, I had to transfer these corrections to the armhole circumference of the sleeve. The tutorial showed a very neat way to do that, which I followed. As this is a usual correction for me, I realized I hadn't done it the right way before, so it was a valuable lesson.

The jabot was definitely the most complicated part of the blouse and its most prominent feature. I haven't had a blouse with such an extravagant jabot before and I don't think I need more of these, but I find it nice to have one in my wardrobe. I finished the edges of the curly bands on the overlocker with a rolled hem. The jabot was also the reason I chose this particular fabric, as it requires double-sided silk and this was the only fabric I had in my stash that looked (almost) the same from the right and the wrong side.

As I know that I need swayback corrections, I deepened the back darts by 0.5 mm on each side (total 1 cm deeper, respectively 2 cm longer). Thus the back was taken in by a total of 2 cm and I absolutely love how the blouse fits me - following the figure without being too snug or too baggy at places.

I really like the fit of the blouse and I feel I need to use the knowledge and practice I gathered at least once more. However I'm sure I don't need more jabots, so I am envisioning my next version to be with a round collar and I would also add a cuff to the sleeves instead of an elastic.

When I began a short sleeved blouse at the end of September, I didn't know it would take me a month to finish it. I worked on it very, very slowly, "a teaspoon per hour" as is the Bulgarian saying and I thoroughly enjoyed this slow sewing. However, as we went far into October, I was sure I wouldn't be able to take any pictures of it out in the open. But we are enjoying such an unbelievably warm autumn this year (it was above 26C yesterday in Sofia), that not only was I not cold during our walk in the park, but I felt actually hot in my silk blouse :)

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