White Raglan Blouse

One more color block blouse I made recently, this one is intended for Gaby.

I've been planning a raglan zipped cardigan for Gaby and on Shkatulka sewing site I found a pattern , that I really liked. However, first I decided to try their raglan patterns with something simpler, like a short sleeve T-shirt, which is free for all sizes on their site and includes a straight long sleeve tee and a short-sleeve tailored tee.

I took out all of my knit fabric scraps and selected a pair that went really well together - off white and black and white stripes. 

Pattern: Shkatulka Raglan Tee

Size: Russian 42 (EU 36, S), height 168 cm; shortened

Fabric: cotton knit fabric

Thread: off white polyester

Time to make: 3 days

Notes: I'm not happy with the fit and I don't think their raglan patterns fit me - they seem to be too narrow at the shoulders and the sleeves don't lay naturally, following the curves of the arms, but pucker up. After I finished this tee, I made two testers of the raglan cardigan I was eyeing, and found them both unacceptable, so I've given up the Shkatulka patterns for now and I'm looking at some other raglan cardigans.

However, I like the idea of using bigger scraps for such small raglan T-shirts and I'm planning at least one more, using a true-and-tried Burda pattern, but probably later next year. It's time to take out the long-sleeve patterns now, winter is coming :)

White Boatneck Blouse

And one more blouse for Gaby. I've been eyeing this boat neck top pattern from Burdastyle 09 / 2021 for almost two months and I finally came to making it.

 It is a simple and straight forward t-shirt pattern with 3/4 sleeves and what makes it a bit more than a basic tee is the neckline, faced with a contrast bias band. The extended shoulder ends of the back and the front overlap and create an interesting visual effect. I sewed the extended back piece in place, as I didn't want the neck to gape and I find the resulting neckline quite comfortable to wear.

I cut the blouse size 34 without modifications, but I had to make some in the course of the making of the top, as the circumference of the sleeve head turned out to be smaller than the sleeve opening. Of course, I checked the paper pattern to make sure it wasn't my doing, but alas - it's a constructional mistake. In order for the sleeve to fit properly, its head has to be a bit bigger or equal (for knits) to the armhole, but not smaller. To compensate, I elongated the head and simultaneously took in the arm opening a little (some 8 mm on both sides of the side seams). If I ever decide to replicate the pattern, I should have this issue in mind and cut the pieces to fit better in advance.

My fabric is cotton jersey, soft but fairly thin, so I suppose the top will not be very appropriate for the coming winter months. However, I hope it will get some wear come spring, its white and black colors should make it easy to combine with bottoms.

Pattern: #102 of Burdastyle 09 / 2021

Size: 34

Fabric: cotton jersey

Time to make: 2 days

Teal Boatneck Tee

The third of the blouses I made out of the big piece of double knit teal fabric - a boat neck tee for me. I drafted this t-shirt in October, using my favourite simple Shkatulka tee. 

The new teal blouse is almost identical to that brick one I made last year, which I gifted to Gaby. The only difference is that I shortened the length by 2 cm and the sleeves - I added cuffs with buttons and real buttonholes.

 
I came up with the idea for the cuffs out of necessity - I didn't have enough fabric for full length sleeves and I did want 3/4 sleeves. I could have gotten away with simple 4-5 cm cuffs, but I remembered a set of 6 black buttons which I bought recently and decided to add them to the T-shirt for some interest.

I couldn't have just added the buttons without making them operational, where's the fun in that - so real buttonholes. I also made the cuffs symmetrical, so that both cuffs are closing away from the body - a detail I hadn't thought through initially. But when I finished the sleeves and looked at myself in the mirror, I realized that the rules for male and female button closure do not apply to sleeve cuffs - they have to be symmetrical, to reflect the symmetry of the body. So I had to unpick the left cuff and redo it the other way.

Pattern: Shkatulka Fitted Tee, modified with boat neck and long sleeves with cuffs

Size: Russian 42 (EU 36, S)

Fabric: double knit

Thread: black polyester (overlocker), teal polyester (Elna)

Time to make: 2 days 

 

My favourite part of the tee - the boat neck. In my notes in October I described in detail how I made the neck and this time I simply followed my notes - it saved me so much mind wrecking! Otherwise I always wonder which part where goes first :)

All in all, a very nice simple blouse, which was ideal for today's walk in the park under the warm January sun - we had a very rare pleasant and warm sunny day here in Sofia. 

And the snowdrops in front of our building are already in bloom!

Burda 6990 B Raglan Sweater

I finally sewed one of the Burda patterns for knit fabrics I bought recently - this is Burda 6990 basic raglan sweater, featuring 5 different necklines. And I liked so much the result that I made a second one out of the same fabric for my daughter.

I  chose view B - boat neckline and the smallest size - 34. However, this pattern runs really big and this XS is truly just an S - with more than enough ease around the body and the sleeves. I shortened the pattern a little above and below the waist, as I usually do. I also a bit modified the finishing of the neckline - I did a sort of a bias binding with a 3.5 cm wide band of the same knit fabric.

Pattern: Burda 6990 view B

Size: 34 and 32, shortened

Fabric: cotton jersey, 2.2 m

Thread: black polyester

Time to make:  5 days for both tees

As I mentioned, after I made the size 34 for myself, I downsized the pattern to 32 and made an identical, but a bit narrower sweater for Gaby. This cotton jersey is very soft and stretchy and this is currently one of my most favorite blouses.

And of course, I added my personalized labels - these are actually quite necessary for boat neck T-shirts, as the difference between the front and the back is rather subtle.

Boatneck Shkatulka Tee

Last week there was a sale of Burda patterns for knits and I bought 7 new patterns, trying to select for unusual constructions or interesting details. And then, against all logic, I took out my true and tried Shkatulka fitted tee pattern and modified it again for my height, adding long sleeves and a boat neck. And this is definitely my most favourite self-made T-shirt so far!

For this iteration of the pattern I printed the Russian 42 (EU 36) size, added the boat neck I had constructed for Gaby's striped tee and elongated the sleeves, using the sleeve pattern from the Plantain Tee. The body and the sleeves are a bit long on me, but I have a funny attitude to sleeves - they either have to be 3/4 or extra long, I dislike sleeves, hitting me at the wrist (and I never wear watches or bracelets either, can't stand anything around the wrists).

To finish the boat neck, I used 3.5 cm wide bands of fabric, employing the method I devised for Gaby's tee - first I covered the back neckline, then I sewed the back to the front shoulders wrong sides facing, then I attached the long front band to the shoulders and the front neckline and finally I turned the band, covered the raw edges and sewed it down. I love the neat finish this produces!

Pattern: Shkatulka Fitted Tee, modified with boat neck and long sleeves

Size: Russian 42 (EU 36, S)

Fabric: cotton jersey

Thread: orange polyester

Time to make: 2 days

The fabric is the remainder of the gorgeous wine red knit jersey, which I initially cut for my Plantain tee. In all honesty, I prefer this fitted pattern with the boat neck to the Plantain, looking at the pictures of other Plantains, my fabric is too heavy and elastic for that cut.

I had planned to give this tee to Gaby, as having two tees out of the same fabric seemed redundant, but we'll see, I love it - the color, the cut, the fit, too much to give it away. I might act selfishly and keep it and make another one for Gaby out of a different fabric :)

Mandy Boat Tee

Another striped tee I made this weekend. The pattern is the very popular free Tessuti pattern - Mandy Boat Tee.

The pattern provides four sizes, each of which covers two sub-sizes. I printed the smallest size - XXS and XS, and as my fabric is rather stiff cotton knit without lycra, not very fluid and with limited stretch, I reduced the width of the body by additional 6 cm (-1.5 cm out of each front and back piece).

Pattern: Mandy Boat Tee by Tessuti

Size: 1 (xxs and xs), reduced by 6 cm in width, 2 cm in length

Fabric: striped cotton jersey

Thread: white polyester

Time to make: 3 days

One of the features of this pattern I liked most is the boat neck - this pattern is made for stripes, look at that chevron! The instructions provide an extensive pictorial tutorial on how to make the tee and, as the pattern is very popular, there are also a lot of makers' photos and videos around the web.

Although the weather is getting colder and winter is coming :), I chose the 3/4 length sleeves - to me they seem more consistent with the wide boxy body.

Anything But Basic Tee

Autumn is in the air and I'm gradually shifting my thoughts to 3/4 and long sleeve tops. 

A pattern, that has been long on my to-do list: Women's ABB Tee by Diby.Club - well drafted knitted top, with various options for neckline and sleeve length, detailed instructions and modification lessons - what more can you want from a pattern!

I made mine size 0 (the second size), but next time I'll cut 00, as I feel the fit a bit extra relaxed, especially in the underarms. I like the length of the tee and the silhouette it creates and I'm especially fond of the 3/4 length sleeves and the scoop neck. I have a very nice cotton knit in the color on the cover page of the pattern and I intend to cut into it next for my second ABB tee.

This is the second necklace out of wooden elements I made recently. Gaby scooped the first, so i guess I'm left with this one. I'm really pleased with how these necklaces combine with plain tops, I'm thinking about a suitable pair or two of earrings to go with them.

Pattern: ABB Tee, size 0

Fabric: bamboo knit

Thread: polyester, blue

Time to make: 2 days

Zoo Top

A new simple top I made for Gaby. The pattern is Kirsten Kimono Tee by Maria Denmark and it is a free pdf pattern of a very simple sleeveless boat neck tee for knits with negative ease at the bust and loose at the hips. I was looking for a plain pattern for a top, preferably without darts or other cuts into the fabric, but still with a flattering feminine shape and this tee pattern fit the bill exactly. And when I saw  Alisa Shay's video and her tops from wovens, made with this pattern, I knew what to do with my precious piece of very light and fun viscose. I came upon it as a fabric remnant at my favourite fabric shop, only 60 cm and I knew it would make a perfect fun summer top.

Because the pattern is made for knits, I had to cut a bigger size to make it from woven fabric. Gaby is an XS, so I measured a woven top that fits her well and decided to cut size S, graded to size L at the hips. Thus it fits her with little ease at the bust and the waist and gives her flattering ease at the hips.

I made the seams french seams, as usual, the hems are narrow hems and the neck is finished with a bias tape from the same fabric. I cut the boat neck wide enough to fit though her head, so I didn't need any additional openings at the back. If I make this pattern again, I might try a more narrow neckline with a keyhole opening at the back, just for fun.

I am very, very happy with this simple top and I am quite tempted to make one for myself, just looking for the right fabric. As the pattern has little shaping, I think it is best made with viscose or other drapy materials, otherwise it would sit a bit boxy.

Before and after - Gaby had a haircut yesterday, just before we took these pictures. Her long hair was gorgeous, but she was getting tired of it, especially in the hot.