Wednesday, April 8, 2026

Alinsky Monastery 2026

The trail to Alinsky Monastery is one of our spring staples. It is more of an open-field trail than a mountain or forest hike, which makes it perfect for those long-awaited warm days. Since Sunday was forecast to finally break the sequence of cold, rainy weather, we planned a hike to the monastery, hoping for sunny paths and blossoming trees. 


What we found instead were felled pine trees and piles of debris left on the ground. For about a quarter of the route, the trails were totally ruined—such a disappointment! A notice board displayed a permit for "technical wood-felling" stating that the area should have been cleared by the end of last year. Obviously, someone hadn’t finished the job. 

Between the logging and the damage from motorbikes, ATVs, and Jeeps, the trails were a disaster. Thankfully, this section was only a couple of kilometers long and not so bad the whole time, but it was definitely not pleasant and the piles of cut tree trunks and branches were a very sad picture.


Once we turned toward the monastery, conditions improved significantly. Even the promised sun peeked through the clouds, if only for a short while. The trees were still far from blooming, early hellebores and crocuses were still out, and we even spotted small patches of snow. 


I brought my hydration system for the first time this year, and I was impressed (again) by how much more I drink when it’s accessible. My husband, who still insists on using a thermos, drank only a third of what I did, despite being twice my size! It really is about the habit of sipping constantly rather than waiting until you feel thirsty. By the time you’re thirsty, you’re already dehydrated, which isn't great for your muscles when you're asking them to work hard. 


Hike info:

Date:  06 April 2026
Destination: Alinsky Monastery
Mountain: Plana
Total length: 16.5 km
Elevation gain: 200 m
Total duration (plus picnic and rests): 5 hours
Average difficulty: 4.5 / 10




Me-made items, worn on this hike:
 
I: lingerie, Lotte Sinclair blouse, "Page" hoodie, ankle warmers, knitted hat
Husband: men's boxers, socks, Burda cargo pants, Burda hoodie, green longsleeve

We enjoyed delicious tortillas and small beers on the hill above the church, looking out at the Rila peaks in the distance.


On the way back, while stopping to photograph these hellebores, I noticed young nettles peeking through the old leaves. I collected a few handfuls and added them to a shakshuka later this week. I highly recommend it— you'll be surprised how well the nettles pair with the tomatoes and peppers! 


The hike was going more or less as usual until we reached the muddy section on the return leg. To escape the mess, we decided to bypass it through the forest. Little did we know there was another trail starting from the same point, but heading in a perpendicular direction. 


Engaged in a lively conversation and happy to be out of the mud, we followed the new trail without realizing it was the wrong one. Almost 2 km later, I became suspicious. I noticed markers that shouldn't have been there, like a line of power lines. We consulted the map and realized we were way off track; the trail had gradually curved away from our destination in the opposite direction. We had no choice but to hike back up to the bifurcation point. 

This is peak Groba, which we climbed on the way back:

Ironically, the "wrong" trail was in much better condition than the one leading to the village of Plana. Pity, that it led to a completely different place and was of no use to us.



Back on the right track - the detour added an hour to our hike and an extra 200 m of elevation gain.


Plana remains one of our favorite mountains near Sofia, but it’s a pity it isn't better protected. The trails aren't well-marked, and getting lost - even for experienced hikers - is quite easy. I can’t imagine navigating it without modern GPS apps!


Saturday, March 28, 2026

Lakatnik 2026

Our sixth consecutive March hike to Lakatnik was a long time in the making. We’d been waiting for the perfect window for days, and when the forecast identified last Thursday as the only "semi-suitable" day  - offering mild temperatures and a zero percent chance of rain - we seized the opportunity. We cleared our schedules and caught the train toward the Iskar Gorge.

As expected, the day was mild but breezy, with clouds occasionally blocking the sun's warmth. However, given how relentlessly cold, dark, and wet this year has been, it was evidently the best we were going to get this spring. For now, at least.


Hike info:
Date: 26 March 2026
Destination: Lakatnik Eco Trail
Mountain: the Balkans
Total length: 10.8 km
Elevation gain: 300 m
Total duration (plus rest): 3 h 20 min
Average difficulty: 3 / 10

I've written many times about this trail, it's a nearly circular route, that is fairly easy and definitely very scenic and absolutely worth the train ride from Sofia and back.



Me-made items, worn on this hike:
 
Husband: men's boxers, socks, grey longsleeve, Burda cargopants
I: lingerie, Burda blouse, Burda hoodie

Spring was clearly waking up in the gorge. The dogwood trees were in bloom, and violets and mountain primroses had already begun to replace the hellebores and crocuses. All the clouds and rain in the world can’t stop the warmth that’s waiting for us just ahead!




We enjoyed our usual tortillas and small beers at our traditional spot: a stony platform overlooking the river, the gorge, and the mountain ridges beyond. It was, without a doubt, the highlight of the hike.





On the way back, we decided to stop for a quick peek into the Temnata Dupka (Dark Hole) cave. We only ventured about 40–50 meters inside to see the bat colonies.


Despite knowing these are harmless insect-eating creatures, seeing them hanging from the cave ceiling right above my head definitely gave me the creeps!

And back to the train station, waiting to catch our train home to Sofia.


Friday, March 27, 2026

Sprouts

My latest obsession - sprouts. I've grown sprouts before, but this new procedure that I follow, is so easy and failure-proof, that I believe everybody should try it.

I'm not going to preach about sprouts, the information about their richness in vitamins, especially C, B6 and Folate, fibers and micro-elements is widely available and well-known. And unlike other otherwise healthy ingredients, sprouts are actually very delicious, adding crunch and freshness to any salad or meal.

My first experiments were with lentils and I'm sprouting presently mung beans as well. Here are the steps I follow:

1. Place 2 tablespoons of seeds in a jar, preferably bio-seeds, they shouldn't be treated with chemical and should be intact, not crushed or shelled. Fill the jar with fresh water, cover it with a cotton mesh and leave between 8-12 hours to awaken the seeds. Dependent on the plant, you might need to keep the seeds in a dark place, like for mung beans, or on a kitchen shelf for lentils, where they would get some light, but not direct sunlight.

2. After the initial 8-12 hours period, drain the water, add fresh water and drain it again. Tilt the jar at a 45° angle, so that any excess water can be drained and the seeds can get sufficient airflow, in order to prevent mold or bacteria growth.

3. Repeat this procedure twice or three time a day (mung beans are hardier and thirstier). You'll see the first small white roots poking from the seeds on the second day.

I took these pictures near the window, because of the better lighting and to show off my gorgeous orchid :), but I usually keep the jar on a kitchen shelf away from the window.

4. The growth process is very rapid, lentils are super easy to grow and my sprouting success rate was nearly 100%. On the third day you'll notice the small green stems of the plant, growing from the opposite side of the seed. 

5. The sprouts are ready to eat on the 5th day, but you can leave them a little longer, probably a week, if you want them bigger. Once they have grown big enough, you can store them in a glass container in the fridge for up to 5-6 days.

The initial impetus for my decision to grow sprouts was the uniquely delicious Korean meal I tried in Vienna - Dak Bibimbap. I used my first harvest of sprouts to make a Bulgarian version of the meal with the products I had at hand - boneless chicken thighs, rice, green peas and lentil sprouts and everybody at home polished off their earthenware bowls - it was heavenly delicious. My next experiment will be a sort of Dak Bibimbap with chicken. rice, carrots, sauteed mangold, cucumber and mung bean sprouts. Can't wait for the tiny seeds to grow :) 


Sunday, March 22, 2026

Cake with Jam and Custard

I LOVE my morning coffee. It's a ritual, it's a religion, it's a sacred rite and communion.

And I love coming up with ideas for the small sweets I eat with my coffee, while doing my Duolingo exercises and reading my German book, all part of my morning routine.

Our dessert with the morning coffee today was a spongy cake with jam filling and custard coating - a perfect combination of textures and sweetness. The 40 g of sugar in the batter makes it very lightly sweet, almost neutral, the jam filling gives a sudden spike of sugary strawberry taste on some bites and the creamy custard with grated bitter chocolate on top smooths the texture and enhances the moisture of the bite.

Ingredients for the cake base:

  • 1 egg
  • 30 g sugar + 10 g vanilla sugar + a pinch of salt
  • 100 g yogurt 
  • 35 g sunflower oil
  • 100 g flour 
  • 5 g baking powder

Mix the batter, pour in a baking form and bake for 25 min in a preheated oven at 200C. Use an apple corer to form holes in the baked cake. Put the extracted cores of cake aside to be turned into crumbles later. Fill the holes with jam.

Ingredients for the custard:

  • 1 egg
  • 40 g sugar
  • 30 g flour
  • 300 g milk 

Cook the custard on the stove and pour it on the jam filled cake. Cover with the cake crumbs. Grate a piece of dark chocolate on top. Serve with hot coffee and enjoy!


Monday, March 16, 2026

Polovrak In Early Spring 2026

We are back in Bulgaria and back on track! The spell of beautiful, sunny spring weather continues, and we are making the most of it. Last week, we headed to the Lozen Mountains to climb one of our staples: Peak Polovrak.

It’s a manageable 10 km hike with a highly rewarding picnic spot at the foot of the peak. With views stretching across Plana, Rila, and the Iskar dam—what more could one desire? 


Since it was a Friday, the Lozen Monastery and the trails were nearly empty, which is exactly how we like it.

The early spring flowers are hurrying to soak up the March sun before Baba Marta changes her mind and brings back the cold and snow, as she is known to do every year!

Hike info:

Date: 13 March 2026 
Destination: peak Polovrak (1182 m)
Mountain: Lozen
Total length: 10.5 km
Elevation gain: 420 m
Total duration (plus picnic and rests): approx. 3 h
Average difficulty: 3 / 10

Alpine squill

Common hepatica (гълъбови очички) - my most favourite spring flower


Despite the spell of warm days, patches of snow still lingered above the 1000 m altitude.

My husband, scouting an alternative path to the peak
Green hellebores
Grape Hyacinths (кукувиче грозде)
Sofia in the distance and the village of Lozen nestled at the foot of the mountain


Me-made items, worn on this hike:
 
Husband: men's boxers, Burda cargo pants, Burda hoodie, socks

I:  lingerie, Sinclair Lotte blouse, legwarmers

Our homemade tortillas and the first beers of this season tasted exceptionally good under the warm sun



Dog's tooth (Erythronium)


Meadows with yellow crocuses