Monday, January 13, 2025

Black Flared Jeans

Last year I made Burda 7050 jeans pattern with dark blue denim with Lycra and it became my favourite pair of jeans. This year, as part of my Make Nine pledge, I decided to use an old piece of black denim without elastane for another pair of flared jeans - my preferred jeans style, but with a few adjustments to the pattern.

I bought this denim probably three years ago and washed it immediately, as I usually do and as most tailors recommend. To my unpleasant surprise, the fabric crinkled and the crinkles left discolored traces. I put the fabric aside and bought another piece of denim for the project I had had then in mind.

This year I was positive I had either to sew the fabric or throw it away, so I gave it a second chance. Although I love my first pair of Burda 7050, I wanted to try a bit smaller size. The original 34 was kind of a bit wide on me and started fitting me great only after I washed the jeans and they shrank. Having had the bitter experience of washing a big piece of denim in my washing machine, I had decided to try making the pair first, then go through the washing process. However, because this denim has already been washed, I don't expect it to shrink significantly, so I went for a size down. I cut size 32, the smallest available in Burda, but added 1 cm to the width of the front and back pieces, thus aiming at a size between 32 and 34. If my fabric had elastane, I would have probably risked 32 without corrections for a snugger fit.

As things stand, I like the fit on the body, it is actually amazingly good, but I think the legs are still a bit problematic. First, the jeans are probably a bit long and this leads to them gathering above the narrow knee point. Next time I think I'll cut them exactly as I have for the body, but shorten them a bit above the knees as well. I can obviously, shorten them at the hem, but I'll wait for a couple more washings, as some jeans tend to shrink in length with every wash.


Size: 32, shortened - 5 cm, added 1 cm width and no hem allowances
Fabric: cotton denim
Time to make: 5 days
 

Although the greyish crinkle lines are quite visible, they don't bother me so much, so if the jeans prove to be comfortable wear-wise, they might become a piece of my staple wardrobe. 

I botched the installment of the zipper this time, although I've done front fly zippers probably a dozen times already - I forgot to add 1 cm additional seam allowance to the right half of the front, so that the zipper could be installed more away from the central line. However, as I usually wear my jeans with a T-shirt or a sweater on top, the zipper is rarely visible, and the fact that it is peaking a little under the flap is not a real issue for me.

Because this was more like an experimental project, I also didn't bother with adding some ornamental stitching to the back pockets, but next time I'll definitely make the effort and adorn them, I like elaborate jeans details.

All in all, I am fairly pleased with this pair of jeans and I think this is my favourite jeans pattern of the three I've tried in recent years. I have another piece of denim fabric in my Make Nine pledge for the year and it will probably be again Burda 7050, but with the corrections I have in mind after my first two attempts. However, as it is light blue, I might leave that project for the warmer months.

Pictures were taken in front of the small church in the village of Plana after our hike to Manastirishte.


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